Clark's Corner
Baits Are the Best Choice for Fire Ant Control
By Clark MacAllister
Fire Ants are a yearly problem for homeowners. Some people are seriously allergic to their stings, and I certainly don't want my kids playing near them. They love to make large, unsightly mounds in our lawn turn and flower beds. Few people escape having to deal with fire ants. Here are some tips to deal with these nasty pests.
​
To control fire ants in your yard, most hardware stores have two options: Broadcast poisons and baits. Most of the broadcast ant poisons consist of granular clay particles coated with a non-selective insecticide, often bifenthrin. Ants are killed when they come in contact with the chemical residues.
​
Also in this category is acephate (Orthene), which comes in a dust formulation. Acephate can be sprinkled on top of the mound or used as a mound drench solution. For a drench solution, mic the recommended amount of the dust formulation into two gallons of water and pour out the solution over the mound. Although this method can be effective, it takes a long time and a lot of product to treat several mounds.
​
Baits are my preferred method for controlling fire ants. Most fire ant baits are made of corn cob saturated with soybean oil and active ingredients. Common active ingredients in baits products are indoxacarb, hydramethylnon and Methoprene. Commonly available brand name baits include Amdor B, Spectracide One Shot, Extinguish and others.
​
Fire ants baits consists of acute poisons which kill fire ants slowly after consumption. This strategically allows the bait to be brought into the nests and passed around the many ants.
​
Because they use oil as a chemical carrier, fire ant baits do not last in storage very long and are prone to spoilage. Only buy the smallest amount of bait you will need to treat your lawn or landscape, as leftover bait from previous seasons is most likely not useful this year.
​
When applying baits, avoid dumping the granules directly on top of the mounds. Fire ants rarely forage for food directly on top of the mound. Broadcast bait granules over the entire yard, or in concentric circles away from the mound.
​
The best time for ant bait application is warm, sunny days in spring and fall. If possible, wait until afternoon to apply you bait, as this allows any morning dew to dry up. Baits should never be applied to wet grasses or soils, as this will render them useless.
​
Avoid disturbing mounds before and during treatment, which will cause workers to emit alarm hormones. Defensive fire ants will only concern themselves with colony defense, not eating the bait you are applying for them.
​
Once applied, baits should be gone within a few hours as the fire ants begin to forage. Give it a week to ten days before you expect to see a reduction in fir are activity. If the mound is still active after this time, a follow-up treatment may be needed.
​
Red imported fire ants are one of the more difficult insects for homeowners to control. It takes the right product, following the right protocol, and a lot of patience. If done right, your yard can be fire ant free for the rest of the season.
​
​
Tree Surface Roots
By: Clark MacAllister
I often get calls and emails from concerned homeowners about trees with large, exposed root systems in their landscapes. As trees age, their buttress roots, the roost closest to the trunk, swell and expand to stabilize the weight of the tree above. Sometimes these roots will grow thick enough to bust up pavement surfaces. The most common complaints are about surface roots that interfere with the lawn. Exposed roots cause uneven undulations in turf. These roots are not fun to mow over, act they can ruin a lawnmower blade in short order.
​
Contrary to popular belief, the root systems of most trees grown within the top 8-12 inches of soil. Even trees like pines, which are often associated with "tap roots" will still have relatively shallow root systems that extend out past the drip line (a measurement from the base of the trunk to the branch furthest away from the trunk). Roots need oxygen to function properly, and most of the oxygen available in the soil is found near the surface.
​
As with trunks. roots also expand in girth year to year. Over time, some of the older roots close to the soil surface will enlarge enough that they expand above the soil surfaces and become exposed. Natural soil erosion will also help make these roots more visible. Once this happen there is little that can be done to hide the roots without seriously damaging the tree. Root pruning is often attempted but should only be used when roots far from the trunk are damaging concrete areas.
​
Some homeowners will attempt to spread new soil over the exposed roots and replant the area with grass seed. This may work temporarily but given time the tree roots will show through the new soil. Another popular solution is to spread a thick layer of mulch over the surface roots. This method can cause damage to the tree be starving the roots of oxygen. It is never a good idea to attempt to change the soil level underneath established trees.
​
Unfortunately, there is no great solution for exposed roots. You may just have to accept that they are part of having mature trees. One potential fix that is least harmful to the tree is to fill the are with groundcover plants that do not need to be mowed.
​
Exposed tree roots may be avoided by limiting tree planting in areas known to encourage shallow rooting. Soils that are compacted, waterlogged, or contain heavy clays promote shallow roots. These soils have small amounts of oxygen which encourages growth near the soil surface. If trees are already growing in compacted soils, aerating lawn areas around the trees can help reduce the compaction. Avoid planting trees in areas where standing water is observed after light rain showers.
​
Landscape with irrigation systems are more prone to develop shallow-rooted trees. Most systems run too often. If you have an irrigation system, it is best to water deeply and infrequently. This forces roots to grow slightly deeper into the soil to obtain water. In the absence of natural rainfall, one inch of water per week is the recommended irrigation rate.
​
Some trees are naturally prone to surface root development. These include populars, maples, willows, sycamores, alders, elms, mulberrys, honeylocusts, and figs. Avoid planting these tree species in or near turf areas if future surface root development is a concern.
​
Successful Shrubs in North Georgia Landscapes
By: Clark MacAllister
Plant material placed around your home is essential to a well-balanced landscape. However, conditions that surround your home's foundation are often the opposite of what most plants prefer.
​​
Think about it - builders grade and compact soil so that it can hold up a home's foundation and footings. Concrete and masonry can leach excess limestone into the soil, causing high-pH conditions. Downspouts are positioned to drain large amounts of water from the roof back into small areas of soil. Dark siding, stone, or brick on southern or western exposures of the house can cause extreme temperature environments.
​​
While essential for constructing a house that will last a long time, most building practices are detrimental to the plants we use when installing a landscape. Plants prefer uncompacted, airy soils, at pH levels that are closer to neutral, and areas free of standing water. It may seem challenging in our native clay soils - which are sticky, compact, acidic, and difficult to dig in - but it is possible. Here are some tips to achieve better landscape results in the future.
​​
Soil Test - Have your soil analyzed for macronutrient content and pH level. Soil pH is vitally important to good plant growth. If the pH is out of the preferred range for your plants, they won't be able to access the nutrients in the soil. Normally we need to raise the pH up in our acidic soils, and this is done by amending soil with lime. Pair this with recommended nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium fertilizer additions, and your plants will thrive. Soil tests can be done through the local Extension Office.
​
Right Plant, Right Place - Match plants to their desired location in the landscape. Pay attention to sun and shade requirements when purchasing new plants. Check tags for mature height and place around your home accordingly. Nothing is more annoying than having to prune a shrub all season because it grew taller than the window it was planted beneath. Pay close attention to USDA Hardiness Zones when selecting plant material. Most of the Dawson and Lumpkin County are in Zone 7, although newer maps have us trending toward Zone 8.
​
Plant High, Never Die - When installing new plants, place the root ball a few inches above the grade of the surrounding soil. It might look silly, but our clay soils naturally settle after digging. Planting high accounts for the settling soil and assures roots don't get buried too deeply. Dig planting holes 2-3 times the size of the root ball and backfill to ensure roots grow well.
​
Easy on the Mulch and Water - Mulch is fantastic, but too much can kill. No more than three inches of mulch is necessary and none should be touching the trunk or stems of plants. Too much mulch can lead to stem rot and early plant death. New plants should be watered daily for the first two weeks after planting (in absence of rainfall), and irrigation should be tapered off after that. More plants die from overwatering than from drought in Georgia. Check gutter downspouts and condensate drains to ensure they aren't dumping excess water onto plants.
​
Here are 5 suggestions for small evergreen shrubs for this area:
​
Distyilum - Vintage Jade, Coopertone, CInnamon Girl
Spreading Plum Yew - Cephalataxus harringtonia "Prostrata"
Abella - Kaleidoscope, Rose Creek
Doghobble - Leucothoe fontanesiana
Dwarf Chinese Fringeflower - Loropetalum chinense - several good cultivars available
​
​
Organic Insect Control for Gardens and Landscapes
By Clark MacAllister
As consumer demand for organic products increases nationwide, companies are responding by offering more and more naturally derived product options. After a quick glance at local hardware and big box stores recently, I was impressed at the amount of organic pesticide options were available compared to just a few years ago.
​
When using organic products, know that they are usually not like-for-like replacements for conventional insecticides for conventional insecticides. Most organics have little to no residual action, meaning they affect what they come in contact with and not much else. This means they have to be applied much more often than conventional insecticides.
​
Here are some of the organically labeled insecticides that can be used in your garden or landscape:
Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) B.t. is derived from a naturally occurring soil bacteria which provides control of the caterpillar form of insects. This liquid product is sprayed on plant leaves and consumed by the caterpillars. B.t. has very low risk to non-target species. Produce names: Dipel, Thuricide.
​
Spinosad - another naturally occurring soil bacteria, Spinosad is effective on a wide range of pests, including caterpillars, thrips, stinkbugs, and beetles. Product names: Entrust, Monterrey Garden Insect Spray.
​
Insecticidal soap - as the name implies, this is a form of soap that has good activity on insects that it is directly sprayed on. The active ingredient is potassium salts of fatty acids. These can cause plant injury when sprayed during hot weather Xan be used to control aphids, whiteflies, mites and other soft-bodied pests. Many companies make insecticidal soap formulations.
​
Pyrethrum - this active ingredient was derived from naturally occurring compounds found in chrysanthemums. It is effective against a wide range of insects, including caterpillars, aphids, whiteflies, yellow jackets, and many more, but its short residual means that it needs to be applied directly on what you are looking to control. Produce names PyGanic, others.
​
Neem - derived from leaf extracts and nut oils from the Neem tree. Neem has action as an insecticide, repellent, and insect growth regulator (prevents maturation of insect juveniles). It is labeled for use on caterpillars, aphids, whiteflies, stink bugs, beetles and more. Many companies now make Neem products.
​
Oils - this category includes horticultural oils, dormant oils, and plant derived oils. Horticultural and dormant oils are derived from refined petroleum, and as such are not considered organic. They don't have the environmental risks associated with conventional insecticides. There are many plant derived oils that are organic, such as orange oil, cedar oil, sesame oil, and others that are commonly available. Oils are useful for controlling mites, scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, and other soft-bodied inscts. There are dozens of different products and brand names containing organic oils.
​
Hopefully these active ingredients will be helpful for anyone looking to pursue a more sustainable garden or landscape.
Managing Ticks
By: Clark MacAllister
One of the great things about living in this area is easy access to outdoor recreation. We are just a short drive away from many of the best hiking trails in Georgia. People who frequently enjoy outdoor activities need to be cautious of ticks. They can transmit diseases to humans, but you can protect yourself before they bite.
​
There are three main tick species that bite humans in Georgia: the Lone Star Tick, the American Dog Tick, and the Black-Legged Tick. Larval ticks and Seed ticks commonly attach to smaller hosts animals. They feed, drop off of the host shed their skin, and develop into an adult stage tick. Adult ticks prefer feeding on larger hosts, such as humans, deer, livestock and dogs.
​
Ticks locate hosts by detecting body warmth and carbon dioxide from breathing. Feeding is usually painless to the host, and ticks may stay attached for several days. All stages of the tick can survive up to a year waiting for a host to come by.
​
Several diseases are known to be transmitted by ticks, including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Both can be effectively treated with antibiotics if treated in the early stages.
​
The best way to avoid tick bites is to stay in areas where vegetation is open or maintained below ankle height. Avoid vegetation that brushed against the body, especially the legs.
​
Wearing long pants can help reduce tick contact with you skin. Tuck you pant legs into your socks and tuck your shirt into your belt. This will cause the tick to move up toward you head where you will have a better chance of catching it before it latches on. If a tick gets under you clothing it can be difficult to detect.
​
Another way to deter ticks are repellants. Look for repellants contain "DEET". There are many brands and formulations available. Liquid formulation of DEET are rubbed onto the skin and can provide several hours of coverage. Deet aerosol cans may be sprayed on clothing as well as skin.
​
After treating your skin, you may also treat your clothes. Use a repellant with permethrin as the active ingredient. This should be sprayed only on clothes, never on skin. Permethrin is long lasting and will not only repel but also kill ticks. It is best to spray your clothes and let them dry overnight to avoid unwanted exposure to your skin.
​
You should always thoroughly check your entire body after outdoor activities. If you find a tick, don't grab it and rip it off. Squeezing a tick may inject disease agents into your body. Do not pull it from the "Ballon" end, burn it or rub petroleum jelly on it. Use fine-tipped tweezers to get clse to the skin and grasp the tick's mouthparts to remove the insect. Don't worry too much if any mouthparts remain stuck in your skin. Immediately sterilize the area surrounding the bite.
​
Don't let the threat of ticks prevent you from enjoying the natural beauty our area has to offer. Follow these simple steps for tick prevention and you can devote all of your time to enjoying nature, not worrying about it.
​
​
​
​
Lawncare Tips for Dawsonville Homeowners
By: Clark MacAllister
A good home law requires dedication, persistence, and knowhow. Some people love mowing grass and for others it's a chore. Many newer neighborhoods have HOA covenants that require lawns to be well-manicured year-round. Whether you look forward to law maintenance or not, here are some tips to get your yard into tip-top chape.
​
Identifying your grass species is key to managing it. In Dawsonville, we generally have a few common types of grass. Cool-season grasses, mainly tall fescue, prefer cooler growing temperatures and grow best in the fall and spring. Warm-season grasses, such as hybrid Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede, grow best during the hotter weather of summer. Knowing this is critical for proper timing of fertilized, week control applications, and reseeding.
​
Fertilizing supplies nutrients your grass needs for lush green growth and a strong root system. The best way to determine that your yard needs is to have a soil sample analyzed. This will give fertilizer and line recommendations for your specific soil type. Lime may be needed to increase the pH of your soil, unlocking nutrients for better uptake by grass roots. Many of our lawn grasses are heavy feeders and require several fertilizer applications each season for optimal growth.
​
Fertilizer comes in liquid and granular form, but I prefer the granular form I've found that granules are easier to apply evenly using a broadcast spreader. Both soil sample reports and fertilizer packaging give fertilizer rate recommendations in pounds per 1000 square feet, so it is important to have a good estimate of your lawn's square footage. You can measure this in a variety of ways, but the easiest I've found is to break your lawn up into square-shaped sections and measure two sides. Multiply the measurement of easch side (in feet) together, and that will get you the area of the lawn in square feet.
​
Even with diligent fertilizing, lawns will suffer if the pH is lower than what the grass prefers. Most of our grasses grow best in soils with a pH closer to 6.0. Native soils in the Dawsonville area tend to be acidic (low pH) and require additions of lime to raise the soil pH. Failing to address pH deficiencies will cause your lawn to struggle year after year.
​
Your grass species will determine your recommended mowing height. Tall fescue needs to be mowed at 2-3 inches. Hybrid Bermuda can be mowed at 1-1.5 inches, Zoysia lawns at 1-2 inches tall. During hot, dry weather conditions, raise your mowing height up at least another half inch to lessen the stress on the grass. Avoid bagging your lawn clippings. Frequent mowing and letting grass clippings fall back into the lawn returns nutrients to the soil and can decrease fertilizer needs.
​
Irrigation can be helpful in times of drought, but too much can be detrimental. Most grasses need about one inch of water per week for decent growth, and that is often provided through natural rainfall. Our thick clay soils retain water well, so I often see overwatering issues in yards with irrigation systems on timers. Installing a rain sensor on your irrigation system, which delays watering cycles during times of adequate rainfall, prevent disease development.
​
Pre-emergent herbicides applied in the spring and fall can help lessen annual weed seed germination. Application times are based on coils temperatures and vary slightly from year to year. For weeds that have already emerged, several herbicide options can be used, depending on types of weeds present. Three-way mixtures of chemicals are available at most garden centers and can control a high percentage of common lawn weeds. However, no product can control every weed well. For pesky weeds that escape your control efforts, bring weed samples by your local Extension office for identification. Ap specialty herbicide may be available to provide better control of challenging weeds.
​
​
​
​